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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 11/18/2008 Posts: 330 Location: Indiana, USA
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I have decided to put new terminals and interior wiring on most of my speakers. The exception is my Mini Utopias, which already have WBT terminals and are single wired. I am willing to take its interior wiring on faith. Most of the rest are Spendors, which , with the exception of my 1/2Es, have rather cheap looking terminals. It appears to use Michell , which I have always liked and have a number left from my days as a dealer. I also have a set of used WBT and a sack of very large pure copper posts whose origin I have forgotten except that it was a good company. I am mainly interested in what wire members would recommend. I had thought silver but high grade copper is a possibility. I can get some AG -18 and AG-23 from DH Labs in pure silver according to their description. They have a good reputation over here but I am open to other sources. Is 18 ga. big enough for the woofer on an S-100 for example or are double runs indicated? Should I solder directly to the post or to spade lugs? Which terminals have you used? Any info helpful.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 2/2/2009 Posts: 267 Location: uk
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I try to keep the internal wiring the same as the external wiring- touches of a coherent loom building here, but I do have faith in this concept! I am using Teflon insulated silver plated copper from Radiospares. I am not at work to grab the catalogue to give you the manufacturers name but they are an American company (unless they have changed supplier, there's no documentation on line) http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5267949It is very very similar if not the same as cable used by at least one quality UK cable company. You will have to be careful dressing it because it is a little stiff. I always recommend a good mechanical join first, so a tight wrap round the terminal first (I was told "solder isnt electronic glue"!) but if you can't, then a well crimped tag will deputise. Have you tried binding posts from http://www.eti-research.com.au/aboutus.htmbut it sounds like you have plenty of binding posts already.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 11/18/2008 Posts: 330 Location: Indiana, USA
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Here is a link that looks interesting. Has anyone used any of these? http://www.vhaudio.com/wire.html
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 Rank: HIFI Novice Groups: Member
Joined: 7/12/2009 Posts: 83 Location: the netherlands
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What I used in one speaker was Kimber 4TC. It solders great and has teflon isolation that can stand the soldering heat like no other. You can choose yourself whether to use the whole 4TC, or whether to take it apart and create something like a pair of 2TC (from one 4TC) for internal wiring.
For my tweeter I even used Kimber PBJ which looks exactly the same as 4TC (or 8TC) but with differently coloured isolation (I think it is the same copper and strand configuration etc.)
I wouldn't dare to solder thick speaker cables to the woofer and certainly not the tweeter connectors, but this Kimber TC (teflon coating) solders just fine as it heats up very quickly because of the few strands it uses. Do not use the cheaper non-TC cable I'd say as the isolation is not as heat resistant and it will not be as tidy and being lesser cables will probably not sound as good.
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 Rank: HIFI Veteran Groups: Member
Joined: 11/25/2008 Posts: 529 Location: UK
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hifistan wrote: I have decided to put new terminals and interior wiring on most of my speakers. The exception is my Mini Utopias, which already have WBT terminals and are single wired. I am willing to take its interior wiring on faith. Most of the rest are Spendors, which , with the exception of my 1/2Es, have rather cheap looking terminals. It appears to use Michell , which I have always liked and have a number left from my days as a dealer. I also have a set of used WBT and a sack of very large pure copper posts whose origin I have forgotten except that it was a good company. I am mainly interested in what wire members would recommend. I had thought silver but high grade copper is a possibility. I can get some AG -18 and AG-23 from DH Labs in pure silver according to their description. They have a good reputation over here but I am open to other sources. Is 18 ga. big enough for the woofer on an S-100 for example or are double runs indicated? Should I solder directly to the post or to spade lugs? Which terminals have you used? Any info helpful. Within a cabinet the runs are so short compared with the enormous length of ordinary copper wire on the speaker coils and crossover inductors that it won't make the slightest bit of difference - unless you use some really stupidly thin wire. Especially as within a cabinet you can space the individual cores so far apart that the dielectric is a complete irrelevance. If I'm fitting new terminals - though I'm not sure why you want to - I wouldn't use any individual terminals, I'd fit a proper speaker connector such as the Speakon range. Much more reliable a contact, extremely low contact resistance and enormous current handling:40A per pole, giving you an 80A rating if you use a 4-pole Speakon with cross-coupled quad speaker wire, and less than 2mohm contact resistance per pole. I don't know what Spendors you have, but the original ones as sold to the BBC would probably have had XLR connectors. Bit puny by today's standard, the Speakon's are much better. I've used these quite a lot for amplifier connections with current ratings far above anything you would use for HiFi audio, and they've proved dead reliable and their contact resistances easily as low their manufacturer's specification. Using a proper connector like this will also make housework a lot easier as you can simply unplug the speakers while vacuuming etc. If you use the right angle version of the plug (NL4FRX) the wires will be conveniently pointed downwards from the back of the speaker.
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 Rank: HIFI Novice Groups: Member
Joined: 7/12/2009 Posts: 83 Location: the netherlands
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kengale wrote:Within a cabinet the runs are so short compared with the enormous length of ordinary copper wire on the speaker coils and crossover inductors that it won't make the slightest bit of difference - unless you use some really stupidly thin wire. Especially as within a cabinet you can space the individual cores so far apart that the dielectric is a complete irrelevance.
Isn't the 50cm inside the speaker just as important as the 50cm outside of the speaker? The comparison with coils and inductors does not hold as there can be meters and meters of wire in them. As there can be 50cm to 100cm of internal wiring per driver, this would mean then the 300cm of external wiring would also not "make the slightest bit of difference", and yet we all know it certainly does.
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 Rank: HIFI Veteran Groups: Member
Joined: 11/25/2008 Posts: 529 Location: UK
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frank23 wrote:kengale wrote:Within a cabinet the runs are so short compared with the enormous length of ordinary copper wire on the speaker coils and crossover inductors that it won't make the slightest bit of difference - unless you use some really stupidly thin wire. Especially as within a cabinet you can space the individual cores so far apart that the dielectric is a complete irrelevance.
Isn't the 50cm inside the speaker just as important as the 50cm outside of the speaker? The comparison with coils and inductors does not hold as there can be meters and meters of wire in them. As there can be 50cm to 100cm of internal wiring per driver, this would mean then the 300cm of external wiring would also not "make the slightest bit of difference", and yet we all know it certainly does. No we don't "know" - it is widely believed by HiFI nuts, but except for exceptionally long runs, when put to the test (proper DBT's, not anecdotes) these differences prove to be imaginary. And your statement "The comparison with coils and inductors does not hold as there can be meters and meters of wire in them" had missed the point - that's precisely WHY a few cm extra of nice thick stranded wire will make no more difference - the performance is almost entirely driven by the performance of the wire on the speaker coils, which will vary widely in temperature and hence resistance with the dynamics of the performance. Worrying about a few cm of wire in the cabinet is like trying to speed up a cross country journey of say 100miles on winding single-track roads by adding 100yards of motorway on the end.
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 Rank: HIFI Novice Groups: Member
Joined: 7/12/2009 Posts: 83 Location: the netherlands
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Actually it was my point that we CAN hear the difference.
The argument that the speaker wire length is inconsequential in relation to the coil and inductors and therefore the speaker wire CAN have no effect does not hold for me as I do hear a clear difference between one speaker cable and another (both of respected companies, so no thin vs thick etc.).
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 Rank: HIFI Veteran Groups: Member
Joined: 11/25/2008 Posts: 529 Location: UK
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frank23 wrote:Actually it was my point that we CAN hear the difference.
The argument that the speaker wire length is inconsequential in relation to the coil and inductors and therefore the speaker wire CAN have no effect does not hold for me as I do hear a clear difference between one speaker cable and another (both of respected companies, so no thin vs thick etc.). But did you compare one cable with another IDENTICAL cable apart from being just 50cm longer? Which is what we're talking about here. There's no argument that if your speaker cables are long enough and have sufficient resistance/inductance/capacitance this might be high enough to be comparable with the driver/crossover parameters, though it has to be pretty poor stuff or extremely long for this to be true. This is why my own set-up does use cross-quad speaker cables, because in my particular listening room they are rather long (over 8m long) and this is an excellent way of keeping the series inductance down and achieving a low series resistance. But to hear the effect of just 50cm of any reasonable cable? And when you say you hear a clear difference between one cable and another, was this done in a proper DBT with no fore-knowledge of which one you were listening to, and repeated enough times to give a statistically meaningful result? Because if not it just joins the general canon of anecdotal evidence, just like that relied on by homeopaths, UFO chasers, MMR-scare believers, etc.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 11/18/2008 Posts: 330 Location: Indiana, USA
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I remember when B&W wired a speaker entirely with silver, I suppose that was a hoax to delude "Hi Fi nuts" such as myself. I do not care for Tom Kuhn but this is one case where his different paradigms argument works. You think I am imagining it all and I think you refuse to hear. I listen entirely for pleasure and my only standard is how good it sounds. Your outlook is entirely conditioned by engineering, if it isn't in the cookbook it doesn't exist. As to Spendor, their domestic speakers used standard binding posts, possibly the powered versions used XLR. If you use 20 Ga. Radio Shack the standard posts are fine,they don't work so well with Cardas and other snake oil cables.
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 Rank: HIFI Novice Groups: Member
Joined: 7/12/2009 Posts: 83 Location: the netherlands
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kengale wrote:frank23 wrote:Actually it was my point that we CAN hear the difference.
The argument that the speaker wire length is inconsequential in relation to the coil and inductors and therefore the speaker wire CAN have no effect does not hold for me as I do hear a clear difference between one speaker cable and another (both of respected companies, so no thin vs thick etc.). But did you compare one cable with another IDENTICAL cable apart from being just 50cm longer? Which is what we're talking about here. There's no argument that if your speaker cables are long enough and have sufficient resistance/inductance/capacitance this might be high enough to be comparable with the driver/crossover parameters, though it has to be pretty poor stuff or extremely long for this to be true. This is why my own set-up does use cross-quad speaker cables, because in my particular listening room they are rather long (over 8m long) and this is an excellent way of keeping the series inductance down and achieving a low series resistance. But to hear the effect of just 50cm of any reasonable cable? And when you say you hear a clear difference between one cable and another, was this done in a proper DBT with no fore-knowledge of which one you were listening to, and repeated enough times to give a statistically meaningful result? Because if not it just joins the general canon of anecdotal evidence, just like that relied on by homeopaths, UFO chasers, MMR-scare believers, etc. No, I have never heard a difference between the same cables, one 2.5m, the other 3m long. I thought you meant that what you put inside the box did not matter. So I argued that the 50cm inside the box is just as important as the 50cm outside of the box, not meaning to say that one can hear the difference between two cables only differing 50cm in lenght.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 9/18/2008 Posts: 479 Location: Melbourne
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I would recommend 1.0mm teflon coated solid core 99.99% silver for midrange and base, and 0.7mm for treble.
I have rewired quite a number of speakers, and have always heard a big difference. Improvements can be heard in focus, dynamics, and timing. Obviously these have always been in decent systems using good external cables, etc.
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 Rank: HIFI Veteran Groups: Member
Joined: 11/25/2008 Posts: 529 Location: UK
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hifistan wrote:I remember when B&W wired a speaker entirely with silver, I suppose that was a hoax to delude "Hi Fi nuts" such as myself. I do not care for Tom Kuhn but this is one case where his different paradigms argument works. You think I am imagining it all and I think you refuse to hear. I listen entirely for pleasure and my only standard is how good it sounds. Your outlook is entirely conditioned by engineering, if it isn't in the cookbook it doesn't exist. As to Spendor, their domestic speakers used standard binding posts, possibly the powered versions used XLR. If you use 20 Ga. Radio Shack the standard posts are fine,they don't work so well with Cardas and other snake oil cables. Yes I know all the commercial market ones have binding posts, but I have actually used studio versions using XLR's. It's the gradual rise in speaker demands for the professional market that have driven the design of alternatives such as the Speakon connector and some rivals. And my outlook is not driven just by engineering - if a real difference is heard then the reasons can be found. But the key is "hear" - not "think I hear". Over the years I worked as a speaker designer I found that what I (and customers) THOUGHT we heard was completely different to what we actually heard, being heavily driven by what changes we knew (or thought) had been made, how expensive bits were, the general reputation of the maker/material/construction. Properly designed DBT's soon showed that a lot accepted wisdom was completely wrong and that to find out if genuine improvements were to be made the listening tests have to be properly blinded. Non-blinded customers happily identified the "classic sound of xxxx" where we had in fact long abandoned the particular xxxx (manufacturer, wire type, amplifier etc) in previous models. And these were professional audio (studio and live) users spending the sort of money that the home user could mostly only dream of. This is NOT subjective versus objective - it's properly conducted subjective versus uncontrolled anecdotal evidence. We all, including myself, like to think we can somehow blot out from our minds what we "know" about a technique/material/model etc, but it just isn't possible. Think of the classic start line to a badly-conducted psychiatrist session: "Don't think of an elephant". And proof that we can identify some genuine differences blind does not validate our judgements in non-blinded situations.
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 Rank: Administrator Groups: Administration
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Joined: 7/15/2008 Posts: 832
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I agree that Speakons are great connectors but they are not that convenient for a home user to move these goalposts.
I was the nut who exactly replicated, with the manufacturers help, a Celestion SL700 monitor in pure silver: voice coils, internal wiring, crossover coils and external cables to the amplifier. At that time I failed to get silver lead-outs for the film capacitors.
I wanted to know whether the metal made a difference. Wire gauges and coil masses were carefully adjusted to keep the driver design centres and overall resistances constant.
Independently assessed by a number of sceptical loudspeaker designers we all agreed that the sound was remarkably different. We had the matched copper originals to make direct comparisons.
What had been interpreted as remaining colouration, a darkness and hollow ringing very like cone breakup though the mid range was much reduced with silver, the clarity and transparency was significantly better both in the mid range and treble.
With this gain was clearer tune playing in the bass, less grain in the treble, in all a quality closer at the time to the the Quad electrostatic.
It sounded significantly less like a moving coil box speaker as we knew it.
But it was still a small, medium power speaker example which was going to cost treble, at least; not commercially viable.
Like BG capacitors, silver does not work everywhere, and it varies in its processing and how it is used.
Some Meridian tweeters have silver VC windings, some AN speakers are all or part silver conductors.
The B&W Silver Signature was all-silver, conductors and components including the relevant contact portion of the binding posts.
MartinC
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 9/22/2008 Posts: 312 Location: Ottawa
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I'm not sure how you do a valid comparison on the voice coil though - can you explain that bit a little more? I guess what I'm getting at is that silver seems a lot heavier than copper, but only slightly less resistive. So if you match resistance, you get a heavier coil, or if you match mass, you can't match resistance? Or are my back of an envelope sums wrong?
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 Rank: Administrator Groups: Administration
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Joined: 7/15/2008 Posts: 832
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The masses were kept as constant as possible for the same cone termination. but were not a big issue in the overall moving mass, it is a very heavy cone for its size .
The lower silver resistance is a help, but not a complete fix , but allows you add a few turns to regain the sensitivity and impedance match.
The final speakers were balanced for themselves, ie against the tweeters in the respective boxes.
As I recall there was about 0.65 dB overall sensitivity difference in favour of the copper originals. Levels were matched for listening.
It was not at all hard to hear worthwhile differences. They were essentially to do with the pursuit of so called High End sound quality.
MartinC
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 Rank: HIFI Veteran Groups: Member
Joined: 11/25/2008 Posts: 529 Location: UK
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Nattt wrote:I'm not sure how you do a valid comparison on the voice coil though - can you explain that bit a little more? I guess what I'm getting at is that silver seems a lot heavier than copper, but only slightly less resistive. So if you match resistance, you get a heavier coil, or if you match mass, you can't match resistance? Or are my back of an envelope sums wrong? Silver isn't a LOT more dense than copper - 10.49 compared with 8.96, and resistivity so near (15.87nohm.m vs 16.78 nohm.m) that the whole exercise is a bit pointless. If you want low resistivity while retaining low weight then aluminium has the best figure of merit (density 2.7, resistivity 28.2 nohm.m), but of course you will need a wider magnetic gap with a larger magnet to retain the same flux density in the gap. Some HF compression drivers do indeed use aluminium voice coils.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 2/2/2009 Posts: 267 Location: uk
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Anyone can listen to a range of speakers with the only differences being crossover and wiring changes with the ART Emotions. They upgrade to silver wiring.
Listening to a longer speaker cable wont show the same change to upgrading the internal wiring because you arent going through a set of bananas, binding posts and related cable joins.
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 Rank: HIFI Veteran Groups: Member
Joined: 11/25/2008 Posts: 529 Location: UK
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ashleym wrote:Anyone can listen to a range of speakers with the only differences being crossover and wiring changes with the ART Emotions. They upgrade to silver wiring.
Listening to a longer speaker cable wont show the same change to upgrading the internal wiring because you arent going through a set of bananas, binding posts and related cable joins.
Are you saying you remove the binding posts and wire straight from your amplifier to the crossover? If the binding posts are still there, then your comment doesn't make sense - it makes no difference whatsoever what order the various bits in series are, an extra foot or so of any wire will have exactly the same effect whether it's upstream or downstream of the binding posts. You'd have to turn basic physics on its head to argue otherwise.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 2/2/2009 Posts: 267 Location: uk
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Thats my whole point, perhaps badly expressed. The internal cable isnt just a longer speaker cable, it is part of a complete loom where every part has to be assessed. Are you using the same cable internally and externally? Are you using adequate bananas or the best sounding? (getting the exact combos wrong but gold over brass or nickel over copper. bananas with one solid retaining bar or a multi filament one) Soldered or crimped connectors etc etc
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 Rank: HIFI Novice Groups: Member
Joined: 10/19/2008 Posts: 80 Location: Edinburgh
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Some years back I re-wired my Kef R-107 with Chord Odyssey and Rumour. To be honest at the time I did it as I was using Chord cables, and I believed it would be worthwhile. It was a bit tedious, and not that cheap, the Chord stuff was difficult to work with. I do at times wonder if there is a more flexible better option to replace that Chord with. In all honesty I thought I heard some improvements, tighter bass and clearer mid, but I wonder if it was more to do with removing internal spade + crossover pin connections and fresh silver solder?
I am not sure I would bother with more than simple quality OFC copper these days, but I am interested in fitting new terminals.
I would like to purchase WBT speaker terminals, the single wire plastic coated ones which used to come on an alloy panel? And possibly replace the XLR socket on the head too?
I would also like to fit WBT amplifier terminals to my Classe CA-100 and Krel KAV-250a.
Just don't seem quite sure which ones I need and where to buy from though?
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 Rank: HIFI God Groups: Member
Joined: 9/18/2008 Posts: 1,013 Location: Greece
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sastusbulbas wrote:I would also like to fit WBT amplifier terminals to my Classe CA-100 and Krel KAV-250a Why, do you think, did Classe and Krell not use WBT themselves? Sumer is icumen in!
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 Rank: HIFI Veteran Groups: Member
Joined: 11/25/2008 Posts: 529 Location: UK
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sastusbulbas wrote:Some years back I re-wired my Kef R-107 with Chord Odyssey and Rumour. To be honest at the time I did it as I was using Chord cables, and I believed it would be worthwhile. It was a bit tedious, and not that cheap, the Chord stuff was difficult to work with. I do at times wonder if there is a more flexible better option to replace that Chord with. In all honesty I thought I heard some improvements, tighter bass and clearer mid, but I wonder if it was more to do with removing internal spade + crossover pin connections and fresh silver solder?
I am not sure I would bother with more than simple quality OFC copper these days, but I am interested in fitting new terminals.
I would like to purchase WBT speaker terminals, the single wire plastic coated ones which used to come on an alloy panel? And possibly replace the XLR socket on the head too?
I would also like to fit WBT amplifier terminals to my Classe CA-100 and Krel KAV-250a.
Just don't seem quite sure which ones I need and where to buy from though?
Still not sure why you would want to do any of this, but the obvious thing to do to replace the XLR is to fit Neutrik Speakon connectors instead - they actually have the same footprint as the XLR and will fit straight on, giving you a 30A rated connector instead of the 15A of the standard XLR. I'm with zonepress, why on earth would you want to fit WBT terminals instead of the existing ones? WBT is just a make, nothing magic about them. Thye're all just trying to make the best of a bad job - terminal posts are a daft way of doing things, just a hangover from cheap domestic audio when it was important that you could fit any old bit of wire without using any tools. Brute strength is about the only way of getting decent gas-tight joints, and even then they often relax and come loose, or the terminal posts start to rotate in the panel. I think we're stuck with them for the moment for domestic kit, and we'll have to live with the regular inspection and re-tightening they necessitate. The professional field has long abandoned this way of doing things as they want to know that their connections will be extremely low resistance and stay that way: XLR's used to be the favoured way but Speakons seem to be becoming the industry standard, though there are a few other low-resistance solutions around. Have a look at http://www.neutrik.com/uk/en/audio/203_324141/speakON_Lockable_Loudspeaker_Connector_group.aspx and you will get some idea of just how large the professional market is for decent loudspeaker connectors. The domestic HiFi market seems adept at shooting itself in the foot- the same happened with low level signals, with the adoption of the phono connector instead of the DIN connector, just to save a few pennies. The instrumentation market has long adopted DIN connectors, usually in their lockable form, as a robust and versatile connector system, with all the usual gender and plating variations. Naim seem to be the only contenders who've stuck to their guns, but they are a very minor part of the market. And professional audio signal levels were standardised way back in the 30's or even earlier, whereas current domestic audio, Hifi or otherwise, comes with a bewildering range of signal levels. Even the TV market has done a better job of standardisation of signal standards.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 11/18/2008 Posts: 330 Location: Indiana, USA
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zonepress wrote:sastusbulbas wrote:I would also like to fit WBT amplifier terminals to my Classe CA-100 and Krel KAV-250a Why, do you think, did Classe and Krell not use WBT themselves? Simply put, because they are too cheap to do so.I became a Krell dealer the first year they exhibited at the Chicago CES and gave Dan a set of Michell posts to put on the KSA 50 he was making for me. He thought they were better than the ones he was using and told me that he was thinking of using them himself. Unfortunately the acclaim his products received apparently convinced him that they were already perfect; the next year he told me "no more special orders". I always tell everyone that I knew him before he was a genus. The Mini Utopias I have DO have WBT posts, at least at that period Focal was committed to using the best possible parts.
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 Rank: HIFI Guru Groups: Member
Joined: 11/18/2008 Posts: 330 Location: Indiana, USA
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To be completely fair to high end manufactures it should be pointed out that,at least in the US , products sell for around 10x their production costs. If WBT terminals added $90 to production costs that would add $900 to the selling price. So the present system where those who recognize their value can add them themselves at a considerably lesser cost and the rest can make do with the standard equipment probably works best. My main point was that the designer could see to his satisfaction that the Michell were better just by looking at them , so apparently he shared the view that such things do make a difference.
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